








A view of the hills surrounding Himiji-jo.
I am using this blog to keep my family and friends upto date with my goings on without bombarding them with mass emails. I have been living on a small southern Japanese island for the last two years however I am back home in the north of Scotland. Well actually I am travelling around eastern europe and the balkans (mostly) at the moment but I will be back home in Scotland in two months!
The first Shrine we visited was Meiji-Jingu in Harijuku. We had the good fortune of being shown around by a group of Japanese university students who wanted to practice their English. Among other things they showed us how to properly purify ourselves with the spring water found at the entrance of all Temples and Shrines in Japan. This served as well as we visited many, many Temples and Shrines throughout the course of our trip. Meiji-Jingu boasts the largest wooden Tori gate in the world and a building especially dedicated to people want to bless and purify their cars.
Many unusually dressed individuals inhabit Harijuku, amung my favourites where a group who dress in black leather and danced energetically to rock and roll music. The picture shows one member of the troupe taking a rest. While watching the performance I was kindly informed by an elderly Japanese gentleman that rock and roll music came from America.
Most of the 'crazies' as I affectionately refer to them do not dance or perform but just sit and be admired by the crowds. They will also pose for photographs if you ask them nicely. I do wonder why they do it.
Our first Temple was Senso-ji. As a side note a Temple is a place of Buddhist worship while a Shrine in a place of Shinto (native Japanese faith) worship. It was a very lively place compared to Meiji-jingu (everywhere the sound of chanting and smell of burning incense). There was also a cute little garden in the complex, We found that the Shrines and Temples made for a good way to escape the noise and bustle of the city around them. Afterwards we took a boat ride down to Ginza and had a wander around a park which had been in previous times the duck hunting ground of the Shogunate. From there we went to the Imperial Palace.
We took the shinkansen to Kyoto, a journeyof 8hours by regular train but only two and a half with the Nozomi super express. The Nozomi super express is the fastest of the skinkansen train services and the trains reach speeds of 300 km.hr! The Shinkansen typify Japanese attention to detail and desire for perfection, there have been zero fatalities in the 42 years of service (despite one derailing due to an earthquake) and during 2003 the average lateness was only 12 seconds . Boarding the train is also a very precise operation, one must wait at the designated stop on the station platform according to your car and seat number and when the train stops the door you need to enter via is exactly in front of you. The above picture is of Kiyomizu Dera in Kyoto, one of the two temples we saw there. Kyoto has many, many temples but we had a tight schedule and lots of see and do!
This picture is slightly out of chronological order. We went to see kabuki in Tokyo (at the Kabuki za theatre in Ginza). It was interesting and visually alluring but not gripping, the English language headphones did help immensely, I would have had no idea what was going on without them. What was unusual was the cat calls (kakegoe) from the audience. The cries are of encouragement or appreciation and there seem to be particular points during the performance when these calls are acceptable.
We took a day trip north of Kyoto to a Holy mountain and town which share the name Kurama. It was easily the most pleasant day of the whole trip. A gentle hike took us to the top of the mountain, along the way we passed many beautiful temples and shrines before we got to the main temple at the top which was bathed in sunlight (after the shade of the wooded mountainside) and surrounded by Cherry blossoms (sakura) which were in glorious bloom. Unlike in Tokyo and Kyoto there were very few westerners about and the place felt less 'touristy'. This photograph was taken near the bottom; I was attracted to the sunlight on the red of a Japanese maple tree.
Sorry, another out of order photograph. This one of a pretty little street in Kyoto, such a contrast to the towering glass and steel of Tokyo!
Taking a photo break during the accent of Mt.Kurama. One my favourite things about Japanese gardens and landscaping are the elegant bridges. I think they have a very natural shape to them.
At the top! This was my first experience of Japanese Sakura, the okinawan variety is somewhat different and I am sorry to say not quite as pretty. The Japanese Sakura manage to be both more delicate and more richly opulent.
Nestled at the foot of Mt.Kurama is the village bearing the same name. The buildings were all wooden and very traditional and the main road (only road) had a stream running along it. Kurama has a natural spring and therefore an Onsen (Japanese hot spring bath). I have wanted to visit an Onsen since visiting Japan and I wasn't disappointed. Lying naked in the hot spring water surrounded by the beautiful mountain scenery, what could be better to sooth a footsore and tired soul. I think on future trips to the mainland of Japan I will give the big cities a miss and seek out places such as Kurama.
The final picture shows a 700 series Shinkansen, the type we used to and from Kyoto. After Kyoto we returned to Tokyo and pulled an all-nighter before returning to Okinawa. This was not planned but our digs in Kyoto turned out to be a bit pants so we decided to be adventurous. Okinawa did seem like another (poorer) country upon returning from mainland Japan but it did feel good to be back to nice friendly relaxed Okinawa.
Me with a student in front of all the rubbish that was collected
Time to relay my weekends various goings on to those of you who read my blog. It was a pretty decent weekend as far as these things go nothing to really write home about but on the other hand nothing to complain about either. On Friday I and the other junior high school teachers all ate and drank at the headmasters house. It was most enjoyable, the new headmaster is quite bonhomie, although I was flagging due to tiredness more than anything else toward the end of the evening. It amused me greatly to watch the male teachers struggle to prepare food before the female teachers arrived, we were literally eating frozen shell fish, but when the teachers of the fairer sex did arrive, oh boy! Plate of scrumptious food did follow plate of scrumptious food. The following day I took part in a beach clean up. As worthy a cause as cleaning up beaches are, and it’s a little tragic to see Izena’s stunning beaches littered with rubbish, my main cause for excitement was the chance to be a sea ranger for the day. Alas it was not to be! Due to a mix up, Kaichi thought the costumes were in his car when they were in-fact stowed away in the car of some unknown other person, I did not get to for fill my dream and be a sea ranger. Maybe next time! Regardless the day was pleasant and what a lot of rubbish we collected! The operation was fairly large scale and involved all the ‘important’ people on Izena (the Mayor, assorted village office staff, Board of Education members, teachers etc.) and I think we cleaned all the major beaches on Izena. After a short break during which I took a much needed shower and mourned my loss of Japanese study time (not really but I am going to struggle to complete this months test, I’ve been too busy!). I don’t find I pick up Japanese just by spending time with/attempting to speak to Japanese people, I really don’t. Which is unfortunate because I have more than ample opportunity for that, I need to sit down and study to learn, so we come across the odd situation that my spending time with Japanese friends is hampering my Japanese language studies. Back to the course of events. After the shower I was picked up by Teru and we went down to the beach to prepare for the obligatory otskaresama party or nomikai or whatever it was called. In grand Izena tradition it involved sitting on blue tarpaulin, consuming moderate amounts of food, imbibing copious amounts of awamori (local booze) and having a generally merry time. The food was good; onigiri, tempura and those little spherical cake things and I did proceed to stuff my face. I got a little bored later on but some elementary school pupils decided it was playtime, so after giving them an impromptu English test (they did very well and impressed the head of the BOE who was sitting next to me and I am sure scored me good browning points) I got down to being as immature as possible. I had a jolly old time with them and probably got a bit of a workout too (all that lifting, spinning and swinging)! Afterwards I watched a movie with Teru and then gratefully slipped into the land of nod. I realize my post is getting quite long now but I have more to say….. Oh the dilemma. Well ok briefly then, the snake I saw (the small brown one) was probably Hemihabu according to Teru and I don’t doubt him! That would be Trimeresurus okinavensis for those particular for scientific names. It is poisonous and a Habu, so I am not sure how they can claim Izena has no Habu, however they didn’t seem surprised or incredulous when I said I had seen one. Oh well. I also now know that a hermit crab can survive without food and water for at least 20 days! Pretty impressive for a species whose subphylum (sorry to be pedantic) have only VERY recently began to attempt to make the transition from sea to land. I also know (from previous lab work) that spider crabs (marine) can survive with no oxygen for about nine hours! Truly hardy creatures. I didn’t learn this out of cruelty or negligence I feel I should stress (ok well the latter was derived by deliberately cruel means but all in the name of science!). The last time I went snorkelling was 20 days ago and I found yesterday at the bottom of my snorkelling bag a hermit crab. I naturally assumed it was dead but after a highly scientific prod with my finger I noticed slight movement! A quick does of H2O and it was right as rain! It is now my new pet; called spiky (it has a rather nifty spiky shell). I have just finished a volleyball tournament between teachers and pupils, quite fun, this year school is much more fun than last year (pre April and teacher change over year). That is all for now!
My Garden in its (glorious) entirety.
Like a proud father I feel compelled to post pictures of my little 'garden'. It is currently the warm and nurturing home to cherry tomatos, carrots and cosmos seedlings (all on the right hand side as you see it in the photograph). Today I added to my angiosperm family sunflowers in the rear left and in front of them white chrysanthemums and some coreopsis. To be honest I don't have much clue what I am doing in terms of gardening but so far it's been working. I guess I picked up a few things helping my Granddad in the garden back home in Scotland. Although growing anything remotely exotic in Scotland means growing plants in a greenhouse until they are big and strong and then only putting them outside for the approximately two weeks of nice weather we get a year.